PAMIR
/ BADAKHSHAN REGION
Pamir
/ Badakhshan Region
Introduction :
In the east of Tajikistan, are mountains and highlands known as
the Pamirs. The Tajik province in which the mountains are located
is called the Kuhistani-Badakhshan (previously called Gorno-Badakhshan,
a name given during the Soviet occupation of Tajikistan). Kuhistani
means the land of the mountains.
Greater Badakhshan
The full extent of the Badakhshan (also spelt Badakshan or Badakshon)
region extends beyond the borders of Tajikistan to the east, south
and south-west. To the east, Badakhshan extends into land that is
today part of China. To the south and south-west, Badakhshan extends
into modern-day Afghanistan.
China's
acquisition of eastern Badakhshan came about through centuries of
westward expansion beyond ancient Chin and the borders of Chin marked
by the Great Wall of China. The division of Badakhshan between
Tajikistan and Afghanistan, was a result of the Anglo-Russian agreement
of 1873 that created a buffer strip between the Russian and British
empires.
In these pages, unless otherwise specified, we will be dealing with
the full extent of Badakhshan which we will call Greater Badakhshan
/ Badakshan, Pamir-Badakhshan or the Pamir region.
Pamirs & Zoroastrianism :
The Pamir-Badakhshan region is home to very old Zoroastrian historical
sites and most of the Zoroastrian historical sites we have identified
so far in Tajikistan, are in the Badakhshan-Pamir region. There
are also enigmatic hand and feet symbols carved into the rock of
the Pamir mountains. The Pamiri consider the rocks holy, saying
that holy men have stepped on these rocks in the remote past.
Candidate for the Location of Airyana Vaeja :
In our discussion on the location of the original Aryan homeland,
Airyana Vaeja, a strong candidate for the location of Airyana Vaeja
was the general area around Tajikistan and more specifically, the
Pamir-Badakhshan region.
In
a related page, Aryan Homeland in the Avesta, we examined references
to Airyana Vaeja in the Zoroastrian scriptures, the Avesta. In that
page, we listed the sixteen nations mentioned in one of the books
of the Avesta, the Vendidad. Airyana Vaeja, the Aryan homeland is
the first nation in that list. Its precise location is a mystery.
In the map below, the second, third and fourth nations, Sughdha,
Mouru and Bakhdhi, are to the left, and the Pamir-Badakhshan region
is the adjacent region to the right of the map.
Central
Asia with first Vendidad lands and possible Airyana Vaeja /Aryan
homeland locale
Map of the Pamir-Badakhshan region in Tajikistan, Eastern
China and N. E. Afghanistan By Marcus Hauser
Badakhshan (Badakshan or Badakshon) is a relatively modern (1,500
year-old) name coined by the Persian Sassanids (c.200-650 CE). Since
shan / shon means place (the forerunner of stan, cf. Khorasan),
Badakhshan means the place of Badak or Badakh. It is not clear
who or what Badakh means. Badakh might refer to the area's precious
stones.
As
we have noted above, we find historic Greater Badakhshan divided
between Tajikistan, Afghanistan, and China. The border between Tajikistan
and Afghanistan is the Panj river where it forms the Wakhan valley.
The border between Tajikistan and China is the Sarykol Range, one
of the Kunlun mountain ranges.
Rather
than their division by the relatively modern borders that were drawn
up for political reasons, the extent of Greater Badakhshan is more
accurately defined by the historic kinship of the Pamiri people
and the Pamiri dialects they speak.
The
Pamiri-Badakhshani people claim to be an Iranian group related to,
but distinct from, the Tajiks and other Afghans. They speak
dialects of the Pamiri language, an eastern Iranian language indigenous
to the region. Tajiki, and the Afghan languages of Dari and Pashtu,
are sister Iranian, i.e. Aryan, languages.
The
extent of the Pamir-Badakhshan region as defined by the ethno-linguistic
distribution of the Pamiri-Badakhshan dialects and people, is as
follows (from Atlas of Languages of Intercultural Communication
in the Pacific, Asia, and the Americas By Stephen Adolphe Wurm,
Peter Mühlhäusler, Darrell T. Tyron, Darrell T. Tryon.
International Council for Philosophy and Humanistic Studies. Pub.
Walter de Gruyter, 1996) :
-
In the east of the region, the Pamiri dialects of Sarikoli and Wakhi
are spoken across the present Tajik-China border in the Xinjang
(Xinjiang) / Kunlun Mountains. The Pamirs includes Tashkurgan and
Kashgar / Kashi (presently in China) in the northeast corner (Photographs
of Kashgar). The residents of Kashgar were known to have practiced
Zoroastrianism and the ruins of a Zoroastrian temple can be found
beside the ruins of an ancient fortress. Indeed, it is possible
that some of the residents of areas in China that practice Islam
today could have practiced Zoroastrianism in the past. The original
Indo-Iranian inhabitants of this area have to a large extent been
displaced by Turkic peoples. The Shahnameh of Ferdowsi placed Chin
(China) to the east of Airan and also east of Turan (Sugd).
-
In the south, the Wakhi dialect is spoken in the Wakhan / Panj
valley bordered by the Hindu Kush in the south [Ivan M. Steblin-Kamenskij
at Iranica, Central Asia xiii. Iranian Languages, suggests that
the name Wakhan i.e. Vah-kan, is derived from Old Iranian Wahwi/Wahkshu
- "good, beneficent," an ancient river name (cf.
Av. Vanguhi Daitiia, the name of a river in Airiianem Vaejah]. The
Wakhi dialect is also spoken in northern Pakistan. The Vendidad
nation that would have bordered the Pamiri-Badakhshan region to
the south would be the seventh nation of Vaekerata (Kabul).
-
In the west, the region continues to include the Panj valley as
it turns north and includes lands further west, that is, the present
Badakhshan province in Afghanistan. That province has its capital
at Feyzabab (Faizabad) that sits of the Kokcha River. In ancient
times, the Pamiri-Badakhshan lands would have extended west to the
fourth Vendidad nation of Bakhdhi (Balkh).
Pamir Boundaries :
Historic Badakhshan / Pamir Boundaries
- In the north, the Pamir region is bounded by a tributary of the
Amu Darya (Oxus) the Surkhab / Surkhob River and Kyrgyzstan's Alai
mountains. The Surkhab is renamed downstream as the Vakhsh and upstream
as the Kyzylsu / Kysyl-suu River in Kyrgyzstan. Surkh-ab and Kyzyl-suu
mean Red River. Reading the Vendidad's list of nations, at the northern
and north-western boundary of the Pamirs, we find Sughdha (Sugd)
- the land and nation that extended from the Fergana valley in the
east to Samarkand in the west and beyond.
Nowadays,
while all Tajiks are mainly Muslim, the Pamiri continue to display
their distinctiveness by following the Ismaili sect of the Shia
religion while the rest of the Tajiks are for the most part, Sunni
Muslims.
During
Taliban rule of Afghanistan in the 1990s and early 2000s, Badakhshan
was the only Afghan province not controlled by the Pashtu dominant
Taliban. Badakhshan was also the base of the group opposed to
the Taliban, the Northern Alliance, the group that ultimately defeated
the Taliban. Today, while the rest of Afghanistan is still in
turmoil, Afghani Badakhshan is relatively peaceful.
Physical
Features
Po-i Mihr, the Feet of Mithra :
Somoni Peak. Photo: World Bank Collection at Flickr
Tajiks
call the Pamirs, Po-mir or Po-i-mihr, the Feet of Mitra, and also
Bom-i-Dunyo, the Roof of the World. Mitra is an angel in Zoroastrianism
and a pre-Zoroastrian Indo-Iranian deity, an asura.
The
Pamirs are home to the tallest mountain in Tajikistan. The Somoni
Peak in the northwest of the Pamirs has an elevation of 7,495 m
(24,590 ft), and the average elevation of the Pamir peaks is about
3,965 m (about 13,000 ft).
The
Pamirs are also called the Pamir knot since several mountain ranges
radiate from the knot.
The
Pamirs form a connecting link between the Tian Shan, Kunlun, Karakoram,
Himalaya and Hindu Kush mountain ranges.
Terrain and Weather :
Badakhshan's
terrain
Badakhshan's
terrain is typified by the image on the left. The Panj River runs
through the valley that stretches up from the lower left corner
of the photograph curving to the right. In the part that can be
seen in the photograph, the Panj River marks the border between
Afghanistan and Tajikistan.
The
Pamirs of Tajikistan are to the left of the Wakhan Valley, while
the Hindu Kush mountains (& Afghanistan's border with Pakistan)
are to the right of the valley. The high mountains on the horizon
are the Kunlun Mountains presently in China's Xinjiang Uygur (Turkic)
Region.
The right peak (top-centre of the photograph) is the Muztagh-Ata,
and the peak to Muztah-Ata's left is Kongur-Shan.
Panj River's Wakhan Valley & farms. The Panj River is
called the Amu Darya (Oxus) in Afghanistan
While the winters in the mountains as well as the highlands of the
Murghab district of eastern Badakhshan, the Pamir Bowl, are harsh,
the Pamirs are also home to temperate valleys.
While
the mountains are rugged and the highlands stark, many of the valleys
are fertile. The contrast in the landscape that is seen in the photograph
of the Panj valley on the left, is typical.
The
principle river of the Pamir-Badakhshan region is the upper reaches
of the Amu Darya River, called the Panj River during its course
in the south and west of the Pamir-Badakhshan region.
According
to Wikipedia, the Chinese call the Pamirs 'Congling' meaning the
Onion Range, a name derived from the wild onions growing in the
region.
Wakhan Valley Farms close-up. Photo credit: crazynomad at
Flickr
Topography
of the Boundaries :
The area defined by the Pamir-Badakhshan region is roughly a square,
with each side of the square bounded by a major river and a mountain
range. The shape and topography is unique. It is unlike any other
region in the area.
The
rivers were called daryas - rivers large enough to be considered
a sea or perhaps rivers that were, in the past thought to be connected
to seas. The rivers flow beyond in different directions. Mountains
ranges also radiate in different directions.
The
Pamirs, the Himalayas and the other mountain ranges at the north
of the Indian subcontinent were formed by the subduction of the
Indian subcontinent plate under the Eurasian plate. The result is
that earthquakes in the Pamirs are frequent and violent. Pamiri
houses are constructed to cope with earthquakes. Hot springs are
numerous and the tectonic forces have created gemstones and precious
metals that are buried in the mountains.
The
Pamir's deposits of precious stones and metals that correspond to
those described as being contained in Mount Meru, the mountain that
stood at the centre of the world, in the Hindu scripture, the Vedas.
Mount Meru is the equivalent of the Mount Hara Berezaiti, Airyana
Vaeja's central mountain mentioned Zoroastrian scriptures, the Avesta.
In the Vedas, Mount Meru is described as a four sided mountain where
the four sides are made from four different precious substances:
the south of lapis-lazuli, the west of ruby, the north of gold and
the east of silver (or crystal).
The
mountains in the south of the Pamir region do indeed contain the
only lapis lazuli mines known in antiquity. The other Mount Meru
precious metals and stones are also found in the region.
Historic Badakhshan / Pamir Boundaries
Passes :
Kunjarab Pass
From the southeast corner to the southwest corners of the Pamir-Badakhshan
region, lie the Silk Road passes that provide access to the Upper
Indus region and from there - the Indus plains - Hapta Hindu (seven
Indus tributaries). In the southeast corner are three passes
within 100 km of each other that connect the Tamrim Basin Kashgar
and Tashkurgan (today, in Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region in China)
to the Gojal / Hunza River valley, Gilgit and the Upper Indus valley:
from east to west, the Kunjarab Pass (4,693 m./15,397 ft.) and two
ancient passes, the Mintaka (4,709 m./15,450 ft.) and Kilik (4,827
m./15,837 ft.) passes. Kunjarab come from the Wakhi Pamiri word
for blood valley. Ancient traders travelled 70 km south from Tashkurgan
to the Mintaka River, and from there headed some 80 km west up the
Mintaka valley and pass. In the central south of the Pamirs lies
the Baroghil / Broghol Pass (3,798 m./12,460 ft.) through the Hindu
Kush. In the southwest corner lies the Dorah Pass (4,300 m./14,000
ft.) that today connects Badakhshan in Afghanistan with Chitral
in Pakistan.
Trade :
Some
of the earliest trade between the Aryan nations of the Vendidad
took place out of Badakhshan with its exclusive Sar-i Sang Lapis
Lazuli mines on the upper reaches of the Kokcha River, a tributary
of the Panj (also called Amu Darya or Oxus) exporting Lapis as far
west as Mesopotamia and Egypt and as early as the 4th millennium
BCE (cf. Ancient Mesopotamian Materials and Industries by Peter
Roger Stuart Moorey, p. 86). Marco Polo visited the Sar-i Sang
mines during his travels along the Silk Road. The area is rich in
other gemstones such as rubies and emeralds and precious metals
such as silver and gold that were actively traded throughout the
ages (see Gem Hunter site). One of the Pamiri settlements that centred
around silver mining, Bazar-Dara, is described below.
Many
of the trade roads to the upper Indus and Kashmir valleys in the
adjacent Indian sub-continent, including branches of the Silk Roads
to the east and west, passed through the Wakhan corridor. This gave
the Badakhshanis access to the Indian sub-continent. It also
gave them a controlling position of the trade roads and one of the
Zoroastrian era forts called the Zamr-i-Atish-Parast, or Fortress
of the Fire Worshippers, at Yamchun served this function. It also
formed a second line of defence for the Pamir / Badakhshan region
to the north, the first line of defence being the Hindu Kush mountains.
Bazar Dara Valley Site Map
In
the central Pamirs, above the banks of the river Ak-Dzhilga / Ak-Jilga,
in the valley of Murghab, are the remains of remote settlements
and a mining complex called Bazar-Dara and Ak-Jilga. The Badakhshan
region has historically been famous from Egypt to China, the steppes
to India for its gems and precious metals. Silver was mined in Bazar-Dara
and traders who plied the Silk Roads came to Bazar-Dara and stayed
in its caravanserai while conducting their business. The settlements
and mining complex are located at a height of 4,000 m. The six sites,
accessible only by foot or helicopter, are dated 10th to 11th century
ACE in the middle valley, and 5th century BCE in the upper valley.
About
1,200 - 1,500 people lived in the settlement which included an administrative
complex, a fire-temple, and a bath with sub-floor (kan) heating.
The size fits the first level of a Jamshidi Vara (see above).
Water
was obtained from small wells and skilfully designed water basins.
In this region, the soil is frozen most of the year and trees cannot
grow. The large building that is believed to have functioned as
a medieval caravanserai, also has Vara-like features.
A
webpage titled Geo-Archaeological Survey of Ancient Metallurgic
Centres of the Bazar-Dara Valley contains further information on
this ancient Pamiri settlement.
Bazar-Dara Caravanserai ruins
Source
:
http://www.heritageinstitute.com/
zoroastrianism/tajikistan/page3.htm