URVA
/ KHAIRIZEM - 1
Zoroastrian
Era Historical Sites :
Karakalpakstan, the region surrounding the lower (northern) Amu
Darya River where ancient Khvarizem was located, contains a plethora
of settlement ruins, many with Zoroastrian connections. Some of
these historical sites are identified in the map below. They are
a few of the larger sites visible to us. Many more may lie buried
under mounds and in the sands of the deserts on both sides of the
Amu Darya River.
The
grandeur of the original edifices in Khvarizem - fortresses, cities
and temples - would have rivalled the Persian sites in the Iranian
plateau - sites that are more commonly identified with the Zoroastrian
era. In many respects, Khvarizem makes the better claim to being
closer to the Zoroastrian heartland.
Map of Khairizem / Khvarizem/ Chorasmia Historical Sites.
Base map courtesy Microsoft Encarta
Shilpiq
/ Chilpik Dakhma :
A major Zoroastrian region is often identified by the presence of
a tower of silence, a dakhma, and there are the ruins of a dakhma
at Shilpiq (also spelt Chilpik) in Karakalpakstan.
Karakalpakstan Coat of Arms with dakhma to the bottom left
of the sun Image: Homestead
The people of Karakalpakstan use the dakhma ruins are a principle
symbol of their province, placing it on their coat of arms, and
in graphics, such as the New Year's sign in the capital city of
Nokis as the defining feature of their province.
In
addition, Karakalpak residents also celebrate Nowruz, the Zoroastrian
/ Aryan New Year's Day. Zoroastrianism, it would appear has a deep,
pervasive connection with the land.
Archaeologists tell us that the Shilpiq / Chilpik dakhma was constructed
sometime between the first century BCE and the first century CE.
According to local legend, the region around the dakhma is also
the place where Zarathushtra began to compose the Avesta.
The
Shilpiq dakhma was used up to the time of the Arab invasion of Khvarizem
in the early 7th century CE. There are signs of rebuilding or repair
work in the 7th to 8th centuries CE and again in the 9th to 10th
centuries CE.
Shilpiq / Chilpik dakhma. Photo: Miles Hunter at Flickr
The
circular structure of the dakhma is roughly 65 to 79 meters in diameter
and sits on a fairly symmetrical conical 35-40 meters high hill.
Its 15 metre high walls were built from pakhsa or compacted clay.
They were probably taller when built and taper towards the top from
a wide base. On the west side of the walls is an opening accessed
by a 20 metre-long staircase. (In India, the door to the dakhma
is placed on the east side of the structure.) At the start of the
staircase is a tall pillar that can be seen from a distance. A ramp
that starts from the river bank leads up to the pillar.
The
Shilpiq dakhma would have served the surrounding region. Zoroastrian
custom requires the body to the placed in the Dakhma shortly after
death is confirmed and the fastest means of transporting a body
to the Dakhma would have been by boat. The numerous river arms and
canals would have made water transport the most practical means
of transportation. In addition, the river at the time of the dakhma's
use would have been wider and closer to the base of the hill making
the walk to the top much shorter than it is today.
Funerary
practices in Khvarizem, Sogdiana and the Semirechye indicate that
after the bones of the body had been bleached and dried for about
a year, the skeletal remains were then placed in ceramic ossuary
containers and buried. It would be natural to expect that families
would want to bury the remains closer to their towns rather than
in the dakhma area and as such only a few ossuaries have been found
at Shilpiq. The concentration of settlements are west at Mizdahkan
(see below) and south of the Sultanuiz hills (Sultan Uvays Dag)
and that is where a larger number of ossuaries have been found.
Currently,
a north-south highway runs beside Shilpiq, with the provincial capital
of Nukus 43 kilometres to the North. Nearby at Qara Tyube, bronze
age petroglyphs can be found.
In
1940, Shilpiq was surveyed by Soviet archaeologist Sergei Tolstov
and members of his early Khorezm Archaeological Expedition. There
is evidence that the dakhma contained a tall pinnacle-like structure
which was destroyed during Soviet rule in order to install a geodetic
survey trig point. Regrettably, a telecommunications tower has also
been built on the dakhma.
Mizdakan & Gyaur Kala :
Mizdahkan
looking west with the Necropolis in the foreground and Gyaur Kala
(Infidel Fortress) in the background
Mizdakan
was the second largest city of Khvarizem covering over 200 hectares
and stretching two kilometres in one direction and one kilometre
in the other. It lay west from Shilpiq, midway between Shilpiq and
Kunya Urgench (or Kunha Gurganj), the capital of Khvarizem. (Kunya
Urgench, a UN world heritage site, is today located across the border
in Turkmenistan.)
Mizdakan
was renowned throughout Asia as a city of art and culture, as well
as one that as supported trade and industry.
The Tragic & Shameful Destruction of Mizdakan and Its Legacy
:
In 1221 CE, Genghis Khan razed both Mizdakan and Kunya Urgench
to the ground in one of the bloodiest massacres in human history
- part of the genocide and pointless destruction Genghis Khan conducted
during his conquests.
Mizdakan
appears to have received its name from Russian archaeologist Aleksandr
Yakubovsky who studied the site from 1928 to 1929. He believed the
site to be the ancient city of Mizdahkan mentioned in the writings
of the medieval writers al-Istakhri and al-Muqaddasi, a native of
Jerusalem. Al-Muqaddasi stated that Mizdahkan was surrounded by
an expanses of agricultural fields and 12,000 villages. In an attempt
to verify this claim, in 1972, archaeologist Vadim Yagodin conducted
aerial surveillance photography. He found evidence of 20 to 30 feudal
fortresses in the surrounding region, along with remains of surrounding
settlements and irrigation canals. Since that time most of these
sites have been destroyed up by agricultural development.
Earlier,
Mizdakan had been excavated in 1962 and 1964 by No'kis University
and the Karakalpak Branch of the Uzbek Academy of Sciences. Regrettably,
the practices they employed were extremely poor and considerable
damage was done while valuable information about the site was lost
because of careless documentation.
The Site, Layout & Location :
Mizdakan is fifteen kilometres west of the provincial capital of
Nukus and two kilometres west of Khujayli. The Gyaur Kala fortress
is a further one kilometre west of Mizdakan. The site contains three
low hills.
Gyaur Kala :
On one of the hills stands the so-called Gyaur Kala (or Qala) meaning
infidel fortress, a name by the Arab conquerors of Persian empire
lands. There are three Gyaur Kalas in the region, one not to far
away across the river and south beside the Sultan Uvays hills and
the other in Turkmenistan's Marv area in the old Avestan country
of Mouru. The naming of these Kalas or fortresses as Gyaur Kalas
assures us that they belonged to Zoroastrian kingdoms as the Arabs
were particularly hostile and derogatory towards Zoroastrians.
The
fortress appears to have been constructed and occupied by the 4th
century BCE during the height of the Persian Achaemenian empire.
It also appears to have been destroyed by fire towards the end of
the 2nd century BCE and then rebuilt and in use from the 1st to
the 4th century ACE until it was destroyed yet again.
Necropolis :
The two hills closest to Khujayli are covered with a necropolis,
a large, elaborate, ancient cemetery - literally a city of tombs
and graves. Numerous ossuaries, coins, domestic utensils, items
made from glass, and exquisitely crafted gold ornaments and objects
have been excavated and removed from the site.
The
oldest burials sites found are on the north-eastern hill and date
back to the 2nd century BCE. These sites show the use of kurgan-like
burial practices, a practice prevalent amongst the nomadic people.
(Kurgans are mound covered graves that often contained artefacts.
memorabilia and items to assist the dead in their afterlife. Usually,
the size of the mound indicated the status of the person.) The necropolis
was shared by different communities and people of different religious
backgrounds.
The
eastern hill contains a number of Zoroastrian ossuary burial sites
dating from between the 5th to the 8th centuries CE. The highest
point of this hill has a nondescript and rather scruff mound known
as Djumarat Khassab and named after a revered khassab (meaning butcher)
named Djumarat. According to legend, Djumarat came to the mound
to hand out meat to the poor and needy in times of bad harvests
or famine. Among the many speculative ideas about what the unexcavated
mound may conceal, there is some speculation that it might have
housed a dakhma (tower of silence) - a highly unlikely proposal
as the locale so close to habitation is entirely unsuitable for
the purpose.
In
the early 7th century the people of Khvarizem began to make ossuaries
out of alabaster, many of which were decorated with a scene of mourning
that some have interpreted as the legendary death of Siyavush, son
of the Kyanian King Kai Kaus - a legend that was later recounted
by the poet Ferdowsi in his epic the Shahnameh.
In
651 CE the Arab advance had reached neighbouring Khorasan, overcoming
the defenders and capturing the city Merv. It was not long before
they would arrive at the outskirts of Mizdakan and in 712 CE, Mizdakan
and Khvarizem fell to the Arab onslaught. The Arabs destroyed the
Zoroastrian fire temples and according to a report by al-Beruni,
killed scores of the Zoroastrian priests. While Zoroastrian burials
continued through the 8th and 9th centuries, these would soon cease
and the site was used for Muslim burials.
Other Features :
In addition to the fortress and the necropolis, the site also contains
dwellings, a caravanserai (a secure inn for travellers, and a neighbourhood
that straddles the road to Kunya Urgench called the Golden Horde
city. Golden Horde commonly refers to the Khanate (1240-1502 CE)
set up by Genghis Khan's Mongol heirs. The city was finally obliterated
by Timur in 1388 CE.
Kyuzeli Gyr :
To the northwest of Khvarizem lies the fortified settlement of Kyuzeli
Gyr (also spelt Kyzylgyuych and Guzeli Gir), located on a low hill
just across the Uzbek border in northern Turkmenistan (see map at
the top of this page). While it flourished in the 6th and 5th centuries
BCE, it is now little more than a pile of rubble.
Of
the approximately 400 settlements of the so-called archaic period
(7th to 5th centuries BCE) Kyuzeli Gyr is the only fortified settlement
indication that it stood at the northeast frontier of Khvarizem
and needed to protect its citizens and their livestock from raids.
The
25 hectare site is located on a hill and is surrounded by a three
kilometre fortification wall (Tolstov, 1962, pp. 96-104). The lower
part of the fortress has open spaces that could have served as a
refuge for surrounding inhabitants and their livestock in times
of danger and as an enclosure for cattle. Higher up the site, twenty
dwellings with courtyards were built beside the fortification wall.
Amongst
these uptown dwellings is a palace-like building covering about
one hectare that contained a spacious ceremonial hall with six piers
and several large fireplaces, had been carefully rebuilt several
times. Next to the hall were storage areas with dozens of jars and
grain bins. In the southern part of the palace was an open, 800
square metre courtyard, its walls lined with broad benches, amongst
which is what appears to be a throne or the place for a throne.
These features lead the observe to believe that the courtyard was
used for entertainment or parade performances.
Opposite
and outside the courtyard, is a four by five metre brick platform
which could have been about three metres high. The platform was
accessed by a flight of steps at right angles to the platform. Around
the base of the platform, excavators found a significant accumulation
of cinders and white ash indicating that a fire was maintained on
the platform leading some to conclude that the platform was the
base for a fire altar.
The
site also contains a temple-like building beside which are three
tower-like structures with small chambers inside.
Despite
reports of kurgan-like burial bounds at the site, no remains of
human burials have been found. This lack of human burial remains
Kyuzeli Gyr and indeed other sites throughout Khvarizem - at a time
where other sites in surrounding lands throughout the steppes contained
large numbers of burial kurgans - has led observers to conclude
that the residents of Khvarizem were for the main part Zoroastrian.
Gyaur Kala :
Gyaur
Kala - Fortress of Infidels Northern wall- the only wall left standing
is fast crumbling
Aerial
view of the Gyaur Kala site The building to the south of the wall
is a modern structure Courtesy: Google Earth
Some 50 kilometres southeast of Mizdakan's Gyaur Kala (see above)
as the crow flies, lies another Gyaur Kala a kilometre and a half
west of an outcrop of hills called the Sultan Uvays mountains (Dag).
As with the fortress at Mizdakan, the Sultan Uvays fortress was
also called a gyaur kala by the Arabs, the name being a derogatory
term meaning infidel fortress.
While
the only walls left standing today are the northern wall and a part
of the northwest corner, Gyaur Kala would have been an imposing
structure in its prime.
The
fortress was built using a unique layout wider at the north end
narrowing at the south end. In size, it was approximately 450 metres
long and 200 metres wide at the northern end.
The
destroyed south-western wall followed the angle of the Amu Darya
river bank, which two and a half thousand years ago, would in full
flow have run alongside the fortress. The river bank has receded
to about 80 metres from the wall.
Soviet
archaeologist Sergei Tolstov first excavated the site 1940.
The
Tolstov excavation was followed by a more thorough examination by
Yuri A. Rapoport and S. A. Trudnovskaya in 1952. Their findings
were published in Volume 2 of the Works of the Khorezm Archaeological-Ethnographical
Expedition in 1958.
Rapoport
and Trudnovskaya found that the massive double mud brick wall walls
were built on a plinth (socle) of compacted clay (pakhsa) designed
to withstand the force of a battering ram.
Cross
section of the Gyaur Kala outer walls and a western side tower.
Reconstruction by Yuri A. Rapoport and G. S. Kostina. Image at karakalpak.com
Rapoport
and Trudnovskaya also found that the outer walls contained two tiers
of embrasures. Embrasures are slanted or tapered openings in
the wall or parapet of a fortification, tapered so as to be wider
on the outside than on the insider so that defenders can fire arrows
through it on attackers while limiting exposure to themselves.
The
space between the walls was vaulted to support the upper archers'
gallery which was roofed with wooden beams, reeds and clay. At the
very top of the wall was an open topped gallery, protected by battlements.
The
walls were reinforced with towers along each flank and at each corner,
the corner towers arranged in an early dove-tail pattern of construction.
The towers had three storeys that aligned with the levels within
the walls.
The
open space within the fortress was divided into two sections by
a dividing wall.
The
southern section was an open courtyard that could have housed horses
or temporary shelters. It could even have been an assembly or training
area for troops.
In
the northern section's north western corner was a large building
which contained a richly decorated hall with wall paintings and
clay statues. It's roof was supported by wooden columns that stood
on carved stone pedestals. One of the walls contained what the archaeologists
feel was a fire altar decorated with a frame designed as a ram's
horn.
There
is no firm dating on the fortress' construction which appears to
have taken place during or before the 4th century BC and remained
in use for about seven hundred years during which time the fortress
was continually upgraded. The reason for the fortresses decline
or disuse are not known.
Artist's reconstruction of the great hall Painting by Yuri
A. Rapoport and G. S. Kostina. Image at karakalpak.com
The fortress was strategically located and would have been in a
position to guard water traffic plying the Amu Darya River as well
as road traffic in and out of Khvarizem. It was also located and
constructed to intercept invasions or hostile incursions along the
river and roads leading into the heart of Khvarizem. The fortress'
massive size would have been an impressive symbol of Khvarizem military
might.
Gyaur
Kala is situated 63 kilometres north of Beruni and 81 km south of
the provincial capital Nukus (or No'kis). It stands about 14 kilometres
from the Badai Tugai forest reserve. The surrounding district of
Karakalpakstan is called Qarao'zek tuman.
Source
:
http://www.heritageinstitute.com/
zoroastrianism/khvarizem/page2.htm