URVA
/ KHAIRIZEM - 3
Kazakl'i-yatkan
/ Akcha Khan Kala :
[Earlier Karakalpak name: Akcha Khan Kala also spelt Axsha Xan Qala
Later Karakalpak name: Kazakl'i-yatkan also spelt Qazaqli-yatqan
Previous Iranian name: Dargash also spelt Darg-ash, Darjash and
Darg'ash]
Fourteen
kilometres southwest of the Toprak Kala ruins lies the 47 hectare
site of Kazakl'i-yatkan, Toprak Kala's apparent predecessor as an
administrative centre - if not capital of Khvarizem (Khorezm). Kazakl'i-yatkan
is said to be the Dargash mentioned in Persian postmaster Ibn Khordadbegthe's
850 CE writings, where he commented that the capital city of Khorezm
had to be moved from Dargash to nearby Kath (modern day Beruni)
after the Dargash had been flooded. Kazakl'i-yatkan is not the only
candidate as the ancient Dargash. Another candidate is the lost
city of Bazar Kala, 32 km north west of To'rtku'l. The earliest
parts of the fortress city that have so far been uncovered, date
back to the 3rd century BCE, though it is possible that the buildings
discovered so far were constructed on older buildings.
The
names of the historical sites in the area are all modern names.
According to Sue and David Richardson, Kazakl'i-yatkan in Kazakh
means the place where Kazakhs are lying down or rest and was a name
adopted in the 1930s, when the site was a rest stop for Kazakhs
fleeing south from Stalin's enforced collectivization. The older
name, Akcha Khan Kala comes from the name of a legendary leader,
Akcha Khan.
Site plan. Drawing: KA Expedition
The site lies just outside the north-western corner of the Tash-k'irman
oasis, a former farming region that has now turned into a desert
called the Aq Qum Sands. At one time the area was watered by northern
arm of a branch of the Amu Darya river - the Akcha Darya river.
The flow of water from the Akcha Darya river appears to have been
erratic. It could have ceased to flow in the early centuries of
the 1st millennium CE only to reform later. A network of canals,
the earliest of which date back to the 5th century BCE, were dug
to provide a continuous supply of water to the area and were in
use until the 8th century CE. However, according to the account
of some 10th century CE writers, despite the drying of the Akcha
Darya river, the area was flooded by an overflow from the ancient
Istemes Lake. At some point, the dried bed of the Akcha Darya formed
the Aq Qum Sands desert which today extend for about 30 kilometres
northeast Beruni. The northern part of the desert, called the Daganioldi
Sands, is where Kazakl'i-yatkan is located.
These
sands, which are up to 15 metres deep in places, cover all but the
excavated parts of the site up to the top of its outer walls. Consequently
from a distance the kala looks like a part of the desert. In many
ways, the drying up of the region is a blessing. The sands buried
and preserved the ruins in a remarkable condition, and in a manner
that could not have been possible with the destructive influences
of water, agriculture and human carelessness. A portion of the Akcha
Darya river survives as Akcha Ko'l lake north of the Aq Qum Sands.
The
square 45 hectare heavily fortified fortress of Kazakl'i-yatkan
consists of an older 15-acre (380 by 340 metres) upper enclosure
nested in the northern corner of the fortress. The fortress was
expanded by adding 30 acres thereby increasing its dimensions to
660 by 700 metres. The newer addition is sometimes called the lower
enclosure.
The
fortifications of the upper, older enclosure consisted of two complex
gateways or barbicans, unfired mud brick double walls roughly 12
metres in height, and regularly spaced towers set on a high plinth
or socle made from compacted clay or pakhsa. The use of pakhsa with
the consistency of concrete rather than mud brick was at the time
a new innovation designed to withstand the impact of a battering
ram. The space between the walls housed two levels of galleries
from which archers could look down and fire upon attackers. The
date of construction is the 3rd to early 2nd century BCE.
Cross
section of the double outer walls. Drawing: KA Expedition
The
roof was supported by wooden columns that rested on stone column
bases. The fortifications enclosed what a number buildings including
possibly a mausoleum at the centre of the complex, a palace, temple
and a temenos, located in the western corner. The temenos was an
open rectangular area measuring about 90 by 120 metres, located
to the left of the southern entrance. It was bounded on two sides
by the outer walls of the citadel and on the other two sides by
solid pakhsa walls. The temenos was a sanctuary or sacred space
reserved for the political or religious aristocracy. There were
also a series of outworks, or proteichisma, along the outer wall.
These consisted of a raised and paved covered way and double ditches.
After
the construction and use of the proteichisma, the second enclosure
was added to the east and south. This too was heavily fortified
with galleried curtain walls, regularly spaced towers and a proteichisma.
Between
the 1st century BCE and the 1st century CE, a catastrophe occurred
at Kazakl'i-yatkan, when a fire ravaged the site, destroying the
wooden roof beams of the galleried curtain walls and towers. After
the fire, the covered way of the upper enclosure outworks were occupied
as living quarters and the towers were reinforced with a cladding
of mud bricks and pakhsa. The upper layers in the galleried curtain
walls and towers were sealed by mud bricks sometime in the 1st to
2nd century CE and a new cover wall was added. Thereafter, the site
was abandoned and the seat of government was moved to Toprak-kala.
The
fortress was robbed, probably shortly after it was abandoned. Most
of the gold leaf was stripped from mouldings and the stone column
bases were taken elsewhere for reuse.
Artist's reconstruction of the central mausoleum Drawing:
KA Expedition
The Mausoleum / Fire Temple :
The building thought to be a mausoleum or fire temple, was an imposing
structure built at the centre of the upper enclosure on an elevated
area, forming as it were, the focal point of the older fortress.
The visible ruins consist of two 10 metre square towers, made from
mud brick that had been linked by a central vault. A ramp leads
up to the western side of the building which was reinforced by a
buttress and mud brick fill. There are indications of a columned
hall on the upper storey.
Temple-Palace :
The temple-palace is located in the northwest corner (upper left
in the site plan above-left) of the old enclosure. The design of
the building shares common features with the grand hall in the Apadana
at Persepolis, since the ceiling is supported by a forest of columns
standing on carved stone bases. The presence of three fire altars
within the building have led archaeologists to suggest that the
space may have also been used as a Zoroastrian religious centre.
Wall paintings :
Mural
example. Photo: KA Expedition
While
the site has been extensively looted, the painted plaster was of
no interest to the looters. Mural art and plaster reliefs have been
found across the excavated areas of the building, and is perhaps
the best preserved early mural art in Central Asia. Dating methods
place a date of the late 1st century BCE for the paintings. Where
walls are still standing, there are murals up to two metres in height,
and where the walls have collapsed, some decorated plaster still
lies where it fell on the floor. Some of the scenes show processions
of humans and animals, while others are portraits. Some of the artwork
are figurative and ornamental designs with vegetal motifs.
Two
of the images show the remains of a crowd scene, so called because
of the three faces, all looking towards an unknown object to the
right. The dual tone facial skin show a sophisticated painting style.
Excavation :
The excavation of the site has been a project of the Karakalpak-Australian
Expedition, the result of a collaborative agreement between the
Institute of History, Archaeology and Ethnography, Nukus (Karakalpak
branch of the Uzbek Academy of Sciences) and the University of Sydney
Central Asian Programme to investigate the Tash-k'irman Oasis and
two sites: the massive fortified settlement of Kazakl'i-yatkan /
Akcha Khan Kala and the fire temple complex at Tash-k'irman-tepe
(see below). The lead individuals were Professor Vadim Yagodin from
Nukus and Dr Alison Betts from Sydney. Hopefully, this expedition
is using more care to preserve their findings than have previous
Soviet-era expeditions. There are reports that the expedition has
reburied some of the ruins in order to protect them from erosion.
Archaeological expeditions in the area are sometimes more a curse
than a blessing. While they uncover secrets from the past, when
they leave, the ruins face the destruction caused by erosion and
priceless treasures that the desert sands have protected for thousands
of years are being lost within a decade or two.
Tash-K'irman-Tepe / Fire Temple :
Platform
at Tash-K'irman-Tepe looking north Photo: KA Expedition
Six
kilometres east-southeast of Kazakl'i-yatkan is a site that has
been identified as a large fire temple complex. The complex features
a central platform over 100 metres long, surrounded by pakhsa (compacted
clay) walls and filled with sterile sand and mud bricks, the top
level of which formed a pavement.
Fire Altar with recessed alcove Photo: KA Expedition
The structures constructed on top of the pavement included an intricate
system of corridors and rooms, some of which contained altars. An
unusual amount of ashes was found at the site. Most of the altars
and chambers were open to the sky.
Main
Fire Chamber. While most the the altars were housed in open chambers,
at the centre of the temple-complex was a chamber with an arched
roof. Inside the room, the archaeological team found traces of the
original sacred fire. The room was very plain without even mud plaster
on the walls and the fire was placed directly on the floor surface.
Main Fire Chamber
Photo: KA Expedition
The altar was located in the centre of the east wall and faced a
niche in the west wall. This room was deliberately deconsecrated
and sealed in antiquity, after which the corridors surrounding the
chamber were used as storage areas for ash.
Ornamental screen in southern fire chamber
Photo: KA Expedition
Southern Fire Chamber. To the south of the main fire chamber was
a far more elaborate set of rooms, which had originally been one
large room with a formal altar. In the original plan, there was
a single large room with an altar set in the south wall opposite
an alcove in the north wall. The north wall had several recessed
blind windows set about the central alcove. At some point, the north
wall was remodelled to contain an alcove and two blind windows.
In the next remodelling phase, the room was was divided by a narrow
mud wall. The wall had a doorway in the centre, flanked by two engaged
pakhsa (compacted clay) columns set on stone bases. The wall itself
is pierced by circular ventilation holes. The altar consisted of
a rectangular mud platform set on a low plinth. There is a decorative
niche behind the altar with a series of recesses. A second recessed
chamber was constructed to the east of the altar.
On the southern part of the platform are a series of open courts
and rooms with a variety of storage areas. Some were found to contain
ashes. To the north of the platform was yet another set of rooms
with subsidiary altars and ash-filled corridors.
Soundings
indicate an earlier structure underneath northeast end of the platform.
This structure is substantial in size with large pakhsa walls. It
may be an earlier temple complex. South of the platform lay a second
complex that is ploughed under and used for agriculture. A series
of large storage jars sunk into the ground were uncovered there,
together with traces of another platform.
The
excavated complex that dates to the 1st to 2nd centuries CE, is
but the latest of two superimposed monumental structures at the
site. Much of the lower one is buried below the platform, but it
has been exposed in areas just outside the upper temple. The lower
temple may have been founded several centuries earlier.
As
with Kazakl'i-yatkan / Akcha Khan Kala, the excavations at Tash-K'irman-Tepe
are being conducted by the Karakalpak-Australian Expedition
Koykrylgan Kala :
Model of Koykrylgan Kala Photo credit: Nukus Museum
Koykrylgan Kala (also spelt Qoy Qirilq'an Qala) is an amazing and
enigmatic site. Its circular shape is unique. Koykrylgan Kala is
a 4th century BCE fortress, but what lay within the fortifications
is a mystery. Today, the site lies in a remote part of the surrounding
desert. In the 2nd century BCE, the complex was destroyed by fire,
was rebuilt and remained in use until the 4th century CE.
Artefacts
found at the site include fragments of glazed and richly decorated
ceramics, two terracotta statuettes, fragments of painted murals,
iron tools and Scythian bronze arrow heads, several ossuaries, and
inscriptions written in the Chorasmian dialect of the Aramaic language.
Aerial view of Koykrylgan Kala Image credit: Transoxiana
12
At the centre of the circular complex lies a 10 m high two-storey
circular building, with a diameter of 45 m, and a 7 m thick outer
wall. 15m away from the central building were the outer fortifications.
The entire building was surrounded by a moat.
The
ground floor of the central building had eight arched-ceiling chambers,
arranged as three interconnected groups. Light for the interior
came via downward sloping window shafts that penetrated the six
metre thick walls.
The
purpose of the building has not been determined. It was not a palace
or military complex, not was it a fortified city. It did have a
fire temple. There are several candidates for ideas on its possible
use, two of which are :
1.
Its circular shape, the layout of the rooms, makes a centre for
science and astronomy with an observatory one possible option. Zoroastrians
had developed a precise calendar based on the stars and the seasons.
Determining the seasons and thereby the time for planting crops
relied on the calendar being accurate.
2.
The surrounding land was once a fertile vine-growing region with
a network of canals. The site has murals of a bearded man holding
a bunch of grapes and a wine jug, as well as a woman pouring wine
from an amphora into a goblet.
3.
Just outside the western side of the central building were chambers
to house ossuaries, and on the eastern side were chambers used for
storage of temple utensils and performance of funerary rites.
4.
It could also have been a multipurpose centre.
Koykrylgan
Kal is a modern name meaning the fragile or breakable fortress.
Whatever calamity brought its use to a close, it was ransacked and
looted. Today only the central part of the fortress remains.
The surviving walls are severely eroded. Most of the outer wall
brick has been removed by locals. Further, the groundwater table
is rising beneath the fort bringing with it damaging salt. There
is little time left to rescue the site before the desert claims
the last of its secrets.
Source
:
http://www.heritageinstitute.com/
zoroastrianism/khvarizem/page4.htm