GILGIT
City
of Gilgit
Central Imaamia Mosque
Gilgit
River
Rakaposhi
Mountain (South View)
Coordinates
: 35°55'15 N 74°18'30 E
Country : Pakistan
Adm. Unit : Gilgit–Baltistan
Elevation : 1,500 m (4,900 ft)
Population : (1998)
• Total 216,760
Language(s) : Urdu, Balti, Shina
Gilgit
is the capital city of Gilgit–Baltistan, a territory comprising
the northern region of Pakistani–administered Kashmir. The
city is located in a broad valley near the confluence of the Gilgit
River and Hunza River. Gilgit is a major tourist destination in
Pakistan, and serves as a hub for trekking and mountaineering expeditions
in the Karakoram mountain range.
Gilgit
was once a major centre for Buddhism; it was an important stop on
the ancient Silk Road, and today serves as a major junction along
the Karakoram Highway with road connections to China as well as
the Pakistani cities of Skardu, Chitral, Peshawar, and Islamabad.
Currently, it serves as a frontier station for the local tribal
areas. The city's economic activity is mainly focused on agriculture,
with wheat, maize, and barley as the main produced crops.
Etymology
:
The city's ancient name was Sargin, later to be known as Gilit,
and it is still referred to as Gilit or Sargin-Gilit by the local
people. The native Khowar and Wakhi-speaking people refer to the
city as Gilt, and in Burushaski, it is called Geelt.
History
:
Early history :
Brogpas trace their settlement from Gilgit into the fertile villages
of Ladakh through a rich corpus of hymns, songs, and folklore that
have been passed down through generations. The Dards (also see :
Dardic people
and dardistan)
and Shinas appear in many of the old Pauranic lists of people who
lived in the region, with the former also mentioned in Ptolemy's
accounts of the region.
Buddhist
era :
The
Kargah Buddha outside of Gilgit dates from around 700 C.E.
The
Hanzal stupa dates from the Buddhist era
This
statue is made to show the spirit of the Polo Sport. It is located
at Jutial. Polo is played every year in the valley Shandoor
I
Love Gilgit sign made to show patriotism towards the region
Gilgit was an important city on the Silk Road, along which Buddhism
was spread from South Asia to the rest of Asia. It is considered
as a Buddhism corridor from which many Chinese monks came to Kashmir
to learn and preach Buddhism. Two famous Chinese Buddhist pilgrims,
Faxian and Xuanzang, traversed Gilgit according to their accounts.
According
to Chinese records, between the 600s and the 700s, the city was
governed by a Buddhist dynasty referred to as Little Balur or Lesser
Bolü. They are believed to be the Patola Sahi dynasty mentioned
in a Brahmi inscription, and are devout adherents of Vajrayan Buddhism.
In
mid-600s, Gilgit came under Chinese suzerainty after the fall of
Western Turkic Khaganate due to Tang military campaigns in the region.
In late 600s CE, the rising Tibetan Empire wrestled control of the
region from the Chinese. However, faced with growing influence of
the Umayyad Caliphate and then the Abbasid Caliphate to the west,
the Tibetans were forced to ally themselves with the Islamic caliphates.
The region was then contested by Chinese and Tibetan forces, and
their respective vassal states, until the mid-700s. Chinese record
of the region last until late 700s at which time the Tang's western
military campaign was weakened due to the An Lushan Rebellion.
The
control of the region was left to the Tibetan Empire. They referred
to the region as Bruzha, a toponym that is consistent with the ethnonym
"Burusho" used today. Tibetan control of the region lasted
until late-800s CE.
Gilgit
manuscripts :
Jatakmala
manuscript, written in Sanskrit, 8th-9th century
This corpus of manuscripts was discovered in 1931 in Gilgit, containing
many Buddhist texts such as four sutras from the Buddhist canon,
including the famous Lotus Sutra. The manuscripts were written on
birch bark in the Buddhist form of Sanskrit in the Sharada script.
They cover a wide range of themes such as iconometry, folk tales,
philosophy, medicine and several related areas of life and general
knowledge.
The
Gilgit manuscripts are included in the UNESCO Memory of the World
register. They are among the oldest manuscripts in the world, and
the oldest manuscript collection surviving in Pakistan, having major
significance in the areas of Buddhist studies and the evolution
of Asian and Sanskrit literature. The manuscripts are believed to
have been written in the 5th to 6th centuries AD, though some more
manuscripts were discovered in the succeeding centuries, which were
also classified as Gilgit manuscripts.
As
of 6 October 2014, one source claims that the part of the collection
deposited at the Sri Pratap Singh Museum in Srinagar was irrecoverably
destroyed during the 2014 India–Pakistan floods.
Pre-Trakhàn
:
The former rulers had the title of Ra, and there is a reason to
suppose that they were at one time Hindus, but for the last five
centuries and a half they have been Moslems. The names of the Hindu
Ras have been lost, with the exception of the last of their number,
Shri Ba'dut. Tradition relates that he was killed by a Mohammedan
adventurer, who married his daughter and founded a new dynasty,
since called Trakhàn, from a celebrated Ra named Trakhan,
who reigned about the commencement of the fourteenth century. The
previous rulers—of whom Shri Ba'dut was the last—were
called Shahreis.
Trakhàn
Dynasty :
A
Dance at Gilgit by G. W. Leitner, 1893
Gilgit was ruled for centuries by the local Trakhàn Dynasty,
which ended about 1810 with the death of Raja Abas, the last Trakhàn
Raja. The rulers of Hunza and Nager also claim origin with the Trakhàn
dynasty. They claim descent from a heroic Kayani Prince of Persia,
Azur Jamshid (also known as Shamsher), who secretly married the
daughter of the king Shri Badat.
She
conspired with him to overthrow her cannibal father. Sri Badat's
faith is theorised as Hindu by some and Buddhist by others. However,
considering the region's Buddhist heritage, with the most recent
influence being Islam, the most likely preceding influence of the
region is Buddhism.
Prince
Azur Jamshid succeeded in overthrowing King Badat who was known
as the Adam Khor (literally "man-eater"), often demanding
a child a day from his subjects, his demise is still celebrated
to this very day by locals in traditional annual celebrations. In
the beginning of the new year, where a Juniper procession walks
along the river, in memory of chasing the cannibal king Sri Badat
away.
Azur
Jamshid abdicated after 16 years of rule in favour of his wife Nur
Bakht Khatùn until their son and heir Garg, grew of age and
assumed the title of Raja and ruled, for 55 years. The dynasty flourished
under the name of the Kayani dynasty until 1421 when Raja Torra
Khan assumed rulership. He ruled as a memorable king until 1475.
He distinguished his family line from his stepbrother Shah Rais
Khan (who fled to the king of Badakshan, and with whose help he
gained Chitral from Raja Torra Khan), as the now-known dynastic
name of Trakhàn. The descendants of Shah Rais Khan were known
as the Ra'issiya Dynasty.
1800s
:
The period of greatest prosperity was probably under the Shin Ras,
whose rule seems to have been peaceable and settled. The whole population,
from the Ra to the poorest subject lived by agriculture. According
to tradition, Shri Buddutt's rule extended over Chitral, Yassin,
Tangir, Darel, Chilas, Gor, Astor, Hunza, Nagar and Haramosh all
of which were held by tributary princes of the same family.
The
area had been a flourishing tract but prosperity was destroyed by
warfare over the next fifty years, and by the great flood of 1841
in which the river Indus was blocked by a landslip below the Hatu
Pir and the valley was turned into a lake. After the death of Abas,
Sulaiman Shah, Raja of Yasin, conquered Gilgit. Then, Azad Khan,
Raja of Punial, killed Sulaiman Shah, taking Gilgit; then Tahir
Shah, Raja of Buroshall (Nagar), took Gilgit and killed Azad Khan.
Tair
Shah's son Shah Sakandar inherited, only to be killed by Gohar Aman,
Raja of Yasin of the Khushwakhte Dynasty when he took Gilgit. Then
in 1842, Shah Sakandar's brother, Karim Khan, expelled Yasin rulers
with the support of a Sikh army from Kashmir. The Sikh general,
Nathu Shah, left garrison troops and Karim Khan ruled until Gilgit
was ceded to Gulab Singh of Jammu and Kashmir in 1846 by the Treaty
of Amritsar, and Dogra troops replaced the Sikh in Gilgit.
Nathu
Shah and Karim Khan both transferred their allegiance to Gulab Singh,
continuing local administration. When Hunza attacked in 1848, both
of them were killed. Gilgit fell to the Hunza and their Yasin and
Punial allies but was soon reconquered by Gulab Singh's Dogra troops.
With the support of Raja Gohar Aman, Gilgit's inhabitants drove
their new rulers out in an uprising in 1852. Raja Gohar Aman then
ruled Gilgit until his death in 1860, just before new Dogra forces
from Ranbir Singh, son of Gulab Singh, captured the fort and town.
In
the 1870s Chitral was threatened by Afghans, Maharaja Ranbir Singh
was firm in protecting Chitral from Afghans, the Mehtar of Chitral
asked for help. In 1876 Chitral accepted the authority of Jammu
Clan and in reverse get the protection from the Dogras who have
in the past took part in many victories over Afghans during the
time of Gulab Singh Dogra.
British
Raj :
In 1877, in order to guard against the advance of Russia, the British
India Government, acting as the suzerain power of the princely state
of Jammu and Kashmir, established the Gilgit Agency. The Agency
was re-established under control of the British Resident in Jammu
and Kashmir. It comprised the Gilgit Wazarat; the State of Hunza
and Nagar; the Punial Jagir; the Governorships of Yasin, Kuh-Ghizr
and Ishkoman, and Chilas.
The
Tajiks of Xinjiang sometimes enslaved the Gilgiti and Kunjuti Hunza.
British Westland Wapitis based in Gilgit around 1930
In 1935, the British India government demanded from the Jammu and
Kashmir state to lease them Gilgit town plus most of the Gilgit
Agency and the hill-states Hunza, Nagar, Yasin and Ishkoman for
60 years.
Abdullah
Sahib was an Arain and belonged to Chimkor Sahib village of Ambala
district Punjab, British India. Abdullah Sahib was the first Muslim
governor of the Gilgit in British time period and was close associate
of Maharaja Partap Singh.
Khan
Bahadur Kalay Khan, a Mohammed Zai Pathan, was the Governor of Gilgit
Hunza and Kashmir before partition.
1947
Kashmir war :
On 26 October 1947, Maharaja Hari Singh of Jammu and Kashmir, faced
with a tribal invasion by Pakistan, signed the Instrument of Accession,
joining India.
Gilgit's
military leaders did not favour the State's accession to India.
The military leaders of the Frontier Districts Province (modern
day Gilgit-Baltistan) wanted to join Pakistan. Sensing their discontent,
Major William Brown, the Maharaja's commander of the Gilgit Scouts,
mutinied on 1 November 1947, overthrowing the Governor Ghansara
Singh. The bloodless coup d'etat was planned by Brown to the last
detail under the code name "Datta Khel", which was also
joined by a rebellious section of the Jammu and Kashmir 6th Infantry
under Mirza Hassan Khan. Brown ensured that the treasury was secured
and minorities were protected. A provisional government (Aburi Hakoomat)
was established by the Gilgit locals with Raja Shah Rais Khan as
the president and Mirza Hassan Khan as the commander-in-chief. However,
Major Brown had already telegraphed Khan Abdul Qayyum Khan asking
Pakistan to take over. The Pakistani political agent, Khan Mohammad
Alam Khan, arrived on 16 November and took over the administration
of Gilgit. Brown outmaneuvered the pro-Independence group and secured
the approval of the mirs and rajas for accession to Pakistan. Browns's
actions surprised the British Government.
The
provisional government lasted 16 days. The provisional government
lacked sway over the population. The Gilgit rebellion did not have
civilian involvement and was solely the work of military leaders,
not all of whom had been in favor of joining Pakistan, at least
in the short term. Historian Ahmed Hasan Dani mentions that although
there was lack of public participation in the rebellion, sentiments
were intense in the civilian population and their anti-Kashmiri
sentiments were also clear. According to various scholars, the people
of Gilgit as well as those of Chilas, Koh Ghizr, Ishkoman, Yasin,
Punial, Hunza and Nagar joined Pakistan by choice.
Geography
:
Gilgit
is situated amongst some of the world's most dramatic mountain scenery
CAA
Park Gilgit
Administration
:
The city of Gilgit constitutes a tehsil within Gilgit District.
Transportation
:
ATR
42-500 at Gilgit Airport
"Jeep"
used to be the widely used vehicle in the region till late 2000s
Air :
Gilgit is served by the nearby Gilgit Airport, with direct flights
to Islamabad. Pakistan International Airlines (PIA) is the only
airline operating in Gilgit.
Road
:
Route
of the Karakoram Highway
Tunnels
are common in Gilgit
Gilgit is located approximately 10 km (6.2 mi) from the Karakoram
Highway (KKH). The roadway is being upgraded as part of the China–Pakistan
Economic Corridor. The KKH connects Gilgit to Chilas, Dasu, Besham,
Mansehra, Abbottabad and Islamabad in the south. Gilgit is connected
to Karimabad (Hunza) and Sust in the north, with further connections
to the Chinese cities of Tashkurgan, Upal and Kashgar in Xinjiang.
Gilgit is also linked to Chitral in the west, and Skardu to the
east. The road to Skardu will be upgraded to a 4-lane road at a
cost of $475 million.
Transport
companies such as the Silk Route Transport Pvt, Masherbrum Transport
Pvt and Northern Areas Transport Corporation (NATCO), offer passenger
road transport between Islamabad, Gilgit, Sust, and Kashgar and
Tashkurgan in China.
The
Astore-Burzil Pass Road, linking Gilgit to Srinagar was closed in
1978.
Rail
:
Gilgit is not served by any rail connections. Long-term plans for
the China–Pakistan Economic Corridor call for construction
of the 682 km (424 mi) long Khunjerab Railway, which is expected
to be completed in 2030, that would also serve Gilgit.
Education
:
One
of the most renowned institutes in the GB Region, Public Schools
and Colleges Jutial Gilgit
Dumplings
a.k.a. Manto is a widely eaten dish in the region
Source
:
https://en.wikipedia.org/
wiki/Gilgit